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Starboard Acid Rail Repair  
On the rail, outboard and beneath the forward heel bumper, a vertical crack. Beneath, covered by some Marinetex, a horizontal (longitudinal) crack, that was the first indication of trouble, according to the owner.

With thick padz, plus the extra bumper, it is hard to feel any structural softness. It does, however, make crunchy sounds when pushed with the thumb.

All EVA and paint removed for inspection.

The criss-cross pattern in the veneer is factory, to facilitate the veneer conforming to the deep recess.

The veneer crack upper left quadrant probably happened during manufacture - unfortunate, but not a great diminution of panel stiffness (the veneer's major function). The sand-through at 8:30 is similarly insignificant, since it is located in a spot of great inherent stiffness due to its shape.

Grinding down through the layers in search of sound material.

Beneath the veneer some Carbon cloth - fractured. Beneath that some 4.5# density Divinycell - fractured. Beneath that some what appears to be 3# density Divinycell, also fractured.

Beneath the inner, lower density Divinycell, more Carbon cloth, also fractured. Finally, beneath the inner Carbon, the EPS - sound, albeit damp.

With all layers contributing to the strength, it is vitally important to remove and replace all failed components of a composite, not just the outermost layers!

After drying, new inner Carbon cloth and Divinycell are vacuum-bagged and shaped, new outer Carbon cloth and veneer are vacuum-bagged and feathered out.
To eliminate all possibility of water absorption into the veneer, I saturate it with penetrating Epoxy, then glass over with 3.2oz cloth in UV-resistant Epoxy. The factory chooses not to do this, settling for an Acrylic clear-coat instead. For boards that live in hot, dry climates, this frequently means splitting veneer and discoloration.
After reinstalling bumpers and padz, I touch up the non-skid by misting Acrylic dust into clear Acrylic paint.

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