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 JP powerbox vs seal   
   
    
      
        
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        it didn't look so bad in 
        the board, with "just a little crack below the head of the fin screw - 
        couldn't you just squirt a little Epoxy in there?" 
        uh - let me see: roof of fin box cracked, sides 
        delam'd, fin pushing against 1/8" Divinycell with a bit of glass on each 
        side. 
        Answer: I think not!   | 
       
      
        
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        New Chinook box set into 
        3/8" Divinycell. Old box cut out. Observe the step-down in order to not 
        jeopardize the foot strap inserts just above. 
        Fit is snug, so that the new box bears against 
        bottom and deck for maximum support.  | 
       
      
        
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        New box installed into 
        board with a slurry of Q-Cells and milled fibers in slow Epoxy. The face 
        of the box needs to be exactly flush, so that the fin head will sit 
        flush later. 
         I check for square with the longest fin I have.  | 
       
      
        
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        After sanding through 
        the original outer glass just down to the Divinycell, and the face of 
        the fin box just  to the bottom of the molded-in sanding guides 
        (thank you, Chinook!), I laminate over with whatever glass I found there 
        originally, in this case 3x 4oz cloth. The first layer is 1in wider than 
        the fin box cartridge, the second layer about 2in wider, and the third 
        one about 3in wider all around to create a gradual transition to the 
        original laminations. | 
       
      
        
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        Same procedure on deck, 
        except that after trimming, the top fin box cavity needs to be filled - 
        I use EPS foam bits, capped by 1/4" Divinycell 
        Note the fin screw support tube! This design 
        eliminates the possibility of wobble that all the recessed fin screw 
        designs have.  | 
       
      
        
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        Glassed over with like 
        materials, except that I add 3 or 4 small bits of glass over the fin 
        screw support tube, since that is where the washer will come to bear. | 
       
      
        
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        After feathering out 
        the fiberglass, I apply an Epoxy fairing compound (shown is VC Watertite 
        by Interlux). This smoothes over bumps and such, and fills the 
        weave of the fiberglass. | 
       
      
        
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        A little sanding, a 
        little primer, a little paint, re-apply the pad, re-apply some non-skid 
        (even though I seriously doubt the wisdom of having non-skid back there 
        - personally, I never stand there - at least not intentionally, but I do 
        drag my booms across that bit of aft deck - whatever...) 
        and - tada! 
        oops, almost forgot to drill the fin screw hole...
                                                                                 
        been there, done that  | 
       
      
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        back to Repair Menu  | 
       
     
   
 
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