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Another Wipe-Out

Mast slam on tip of nose caused tip to deflect, rails tore, bottom buckled, feels loose and crunches when depressed = Divinycell sheared and delam'd
Loose stuff ground away to where adhesion of inner glass to EPS foam, as well as Divinycell to inner glass is found good.

Notice the long bevel on the Divinycell edges. This is the basis for the scarf joint.

Vacuum-bagging the new inner glass (one 4oz), plus the new PVC foam (1/8" - this is Herex cross-linked), all set into slow Epoxy to keep the exotherm down - with the resin surrounded by extremely good insulators (EPS and PVC foams), heat generated by the curing Epoxy has no way to dissipate. Spectacular melt-downs can be produced with fast Epoxies in this application!
The new PVC foam feathered out. Observe how the new inner glass emerges on the edges, ready to form a shear joint with the outer glass.

Notice also the total absence of voids and loose edges. Whatever would we do without vacuum-bagging!

Glassed over with the same 8oz of cloth I found there originally, with an extra two layers of 4oz cloth on the rails.

See how clear a good glass job is! If it looks white, it is probably too dry!

Fairing compound applied, and the whole thing sanded down. Since I worry about fairness all along, the amount of fairing compound (and extra weight) required is relatively small.
Primer applied for the final surface prep and to show up pinholes, then most of it sanded off again. The self-adhesive shelf paper is a slick way to mask off decals prior to painting.
Paint applied, shelf paper peeled off, the whole sanded with wet-and-dry 220, 400, and 600 to match the original satin-finish paint on the bottom. The gloss rails require sanding to 1200 grit, followed by rubbing compound.


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